How to Replace MG20 Ear Pads Without Damaging Them

Quick answer

To replace MG20 ear pads safely, work one side at a time, grip the pad by its outer edge, and pull straight away from the housing so the magnet releases instead of twisting. Set the new pad down aligned, then let the magnets seat it with light pressure. Never pull by the inner foam or use tools, since both can crease the padding or scuff the finish.

MG20 ear pads are designed to come off, which is good news if yours are flattened, flaking, or simply due for a clean. The catch is that most damage during a pad swap does not happen to the headphones; it happens to the new pads, usually because they were twisted off or squeezed back on.

This guide walks through the removal and installation in order, with the checkpoints that keep the magnets, the memory foam, and the housing finish intact. It applies to any MG20 pad you are fitting, whether you are replacing a worn set or swapping colors.

Before you start: what you actually need

You do not need a toolkit for this job. The pads attach by magnets, so the correct tools are your hands, a clean flat surface, and a couple of minutes where you are not rushing. A microfiber cloth is useful for wiping the housing once the old pads are off, and a small tray keeps the removed pads from picking up dust while you work.

One thing worth checking first: confirm which pad style you are fitting. Master & Dynamic pads are removable and magnetically attached, but they are not all identical in shape, so match the replacement to the model before you begin rather than forcing a pad that does not sit flush.

• Skip metal tools, tweezers, and screwdrivers entirely; they are the fastest way to scratch the housing or tear foam.
• Work over a table, not over a hard floor, so a dropped pad does not land on its edge.

Step 1: Remove the old pad without twisting

Hold the headphone firmly with one hand so the housing cannot rotate. With the other hand, grip the ear pad at its outer rim, not the soft inner foam, and pull it straight away from the housing. The magnets should release with a clean separation and no resistance once the pad clears the mounting points.

The most common mistake here is peeling the pad off like a sticker. Angling the pull loads one edge of the foam and can leave a permanent crease in the memory foam, which is exactly the wear you were trying to fix. If a pad feels stuck, check that you are pulling perpendicular to the housing rather than sideways.

• Checkpoint: the pad should come away in one piece with the mounting ring intact.
• If the old pad is already flaking, remove it over a bin so loose material does not settle into the housing.

Step 2: Clean and inspect the housing

With the pad off, wipe the exposed housing and magnet area with a dry or very slightly damp microfiber cloth. This is also your chance to check the mounting points for dust, hair, or sticky residue; anything sitting between the magnet and the pad will stop the new pad from seating flat.

Let the surface dry completely before fitting anything. Moisture trapped under a pad is a fast route to odor and material breakdown, and it is entirely avoidable in a two-minute job.

• Do not use solvents, alcohol sprays, or abrasive cloths on the housing or the magnet ring.
• Checkpoint: the mounting surface should be dry, lint-free, and free of old adhesive or foam crumbs.

Step 3: Seat the new pad and let the magnets do the work

Line the new pad up with the housing so the shape matches the opening, then lower it into place. The magnets will pull it into position; you should feel it settle rather than have to press it. Light, even pressure around the rim is enough to confirm contact.

The mistake to avoid is pressing hard in the center. Pushing down on the middle compresses the memory foam before it has seated and can distort the pad's shape. If the pad does not sit flush, lift it off and realign instead of forcing it down.

• Checkpoint: the pad edge should sit evenly against the housing with no gap on any side.
• Rotate the headphone and look at the pad from the side; a tilted pad usually means it needs to be lifted and reseated.

Step 4: Repeat on the second side and test the fit

Do the other side the same way, one pad at a time, so you always have a reference for how the first pad seated. Once both are on, put the headphones on and check the seal around your ears. A correctly fitted pad should sit comfortably without pinching, and the sound should feel balanced between left and right.

If one side sounds thinner or feels loose, take that pad off and reseat it. It is almost always an alignment issue rather than a defective pad, and it takes seconds to correct before the foam takes a set.

• Checkpoint: even pressure on both ears and no rocking when you turn your head.
• If you swapped between on-ear and over-ear styles, give yourself a few listening sessions to adjust to the different seal.

Keeping pads in good shape between replacements

Most pad wear comes from skin oils, sweat, and storage rather than listening hours. Wiping the pads down after heavy use and letting them air dry before they go back in a case will noticeably extend their life. Avoid leaving headphones in direct sun or a hot car, since heat is hard on both memory foam and the covering material.

When the foam stops springing back or the covering starts to flake, replacement is the right call rather than trying to clean around the damage. Pads are removable specifically so this stays a quick maintenance task instead of a repair.

• Keep a spare set of pads on hand if you use your headphones daily; the swap takes minutes.
• Store headphones flat or in a case so the pads are not compressed against anything.

MG20 pad replacement at a glance

1. Grip the outer rim, not the foam: Hold the headphone steady with one hand and pull the pad straight off by its outer edge so the magnets release cleanly. Checkpoint: no crease in the foam and no residue left on the housing.
2. Clean and dry the mounting surface: Wipe the housing and magnet area with a dry microfiber cloth and let it dry fully before fitting the new pad. Checkpoint: surface is lint-free and dry.
3. Align, lower, and let the magnets seat it: Match the pad shape to the opening, lower it into place, and apply only light pressure around the rim. Checkpoint: even gap all the way around, no center pressing.
4. Reseat rather than force: If a pad sits unevenly or feels loose, lift it off and realign instead of pushing it down harder. Checkpoint: balanced seal on both ears before you store the headphones.

Pad options that fit this process

• MW50+ Over-Ear Ear Pads: Made of lambskin-wrapped memory foam and connected to the headphones via magnets, with on-ear and over-ear options. The magnetic attachment is the same principle you rely on during removal, so pulling straight off the housing is the correct technique for this pad family.
• MH30 Ear Pads: Lambskin-wrapped memory foam pads that attach magnetically and are removable for personalization, cleaning, or replacement. Confirms that removal is intended to be tool-free, so if a pad resists, stop and check alignment rather than pulling harder.
• MW75 Neuro Ear Pads - Black Leather: Listed at USD 24.50 with a catalog comparison price of USD 49.00. Useful as a price reference if you are comparing replacement pad costs across models before ordering.

Replacing MG20 ear pads is a short, tool-free job as long as you pull straight, keep the foam out of the equation, and let the magnets do the seating. Do one side at a time, reseat rather than force, and your pads and housing will come through the swap in the same shape they went in.